GENERAL POWER VENTER

1. What is the best method for sizing a power venter to any type of appliance, whether gas fired of oil fired?
The best way to size a power venter is by input BTU (if gas) and maximum GPH (gallons per hour), if oil. If oil-fired system take into account the pump pressure. For example the firing rate of an appliance with 1.00 GPH and a pump pressure of 140 PSI will be equivalent to 1.20 GPH firing rate. Sizing a power venter to the down-fired rate is not recommended. Also, do not size an oil-fired appliance by the BTU rating. In the oil heat industry most people speak of BTU output, which is a smaller number. Going by maximum GPH rating cuts out the confusion between input and output.

2. When reducing or increasing the flue pipe, where is the best location to do it?
The best place to do any increasing would be as close to the outlet of the heating appliance as possible. This would be opposite when it comes to reducing the flue pipe size. For reducing flue pipe size you would want to reduce as close to the power venter as possible, this will give you better drafting and control of your static pressure.

3. Which power venter is better, the SWG series or the PV series?
The SWG series power venter is the safest of the power venters to use since it will keep the venting system under a negative pressure. With the system under a negative pressure, if a crack occurs in the flue pipe it will draw air in through the crack instead of leaking the flue gases out, which is what happens with a positive pressure system. Both power venters work just as well in venting flue gases, but the SWG is the safest.

4. What if the power venter cannot be mounted 12 inches above finished grade?
Run an elbow out of the house and go up until you are a foot above grade, then elbow into the power venter. Build a doghouse structure around the power venter for support. Call 800-742-8368 if further information is needed.

5. How far can I run the 1/4 inch pressure-sensing tube on my CK kit to the stainless steel tube on the power venter?
The power venter can produce the required vacuum pressure to close the pressure switch up to 100 feet away.

6. Can a power venter be mounted under a deck?
Generally this practice will be accepted in most states except Massachusetts. Installer should check with local code officials before installation. The deck must be open on all three sides and the clearance from the top of the venter to the bottom of the deck should be at least 12 inches. When venting appliances that operate in the summer this may not be a good practice since people enjoying the deck may smell fumes.

7. Can a power venter be mounted under an overhang?
Yes, as long as there is at least 12 inches of clearance between the top of the venter and the bottom of the overhang. This clearance may be reduced to 6 inches if a sheet metal shield is mounted underneath the overhang extending 12 inches on either side of the SWG. Also, check with local code officials for any additional requirements.

8. Should the power venter be 4 feet under a window, door, or gravity air inlet or should it be 4 feet under and 4 feet to the side of the same opening?
This code requirement is interpreted differently depending on the State in which the job is located. Always check with local inspectors before installation. Also, even if the inspector allows 4 feet below a window with an oil-fired appliance, this may not be a good idea because of the likelihood of oil fumes drifting back into the window.

9. How far apart do two power venters need to be?
Two power venters mounted side by side should be a minimum of 4 feet horizontally apart from each other, measured from the inside edge of each venter. This is to reduce the potential of flue gas re-entry into the building when the venter is not operating. Mounting venters directly above each other is not recommended.

10. What if my wall is too thick for the SWG?
Use a PEK. The PEK will extend the SWGII-4HD by 6 inches and the SWG-5-8 by 12 inches. If the wall is too thick for SWG and PEK, add installer supplied smoke pipe that is the same diameter as SWG and PEK. Mount the installer-supplied pipe between the SWG and PEK.

11. Can another appliance be added to a power venter later?
Yes, as long as you make sure the existing power venter can handle the maximum input BTU or GPH of both appliances and you use the appropriate control kit for the second appliance.

12. Will the outside wall of my house get stained with soot if I have a power venter installed?
Some discoloration may occur if the burner is not properly adjusted. For the most part the SWG power venter, when properly sized and installed, tends to blow flue gases out and away from the building. It is best to install the venter opposite the side of the house that gets the most prevailing wind.

13. Why is the blower wheel on my power venter falling apart in an unreasonably short period of time?
This is probably due to a condensation problem. Single wall pipe should not be used in unconditioned spaces. Insulated pipe and ensuring adequate combustion and make up air will help. Using a post purge will remove all excess flue gases to help prevent condensation from forming.

14. During the summer, white crystals are form in the joints of the vent pipe. Why is this?
This is normally a problem that occurs when an air conditioning system is installed. When the blower comes on, outside air is being drawn into the house through the power venter. The hot, humid outside air causes condensation to form in the pipe. The white crystalline material is usually zinc oxide. Zinc is used in the galvanizing process. The solution would be to use our MAS kit to bring in more outside air directly to the appliance.

SWG GAS FIRED - DRAFT INDUCED
 

1. Is the Barometric Draft Control necessary?
Yes, the Barometric Draft Control is necessary for four specific reasons: A)To eliminate the appliance pressure switch override if the appliance inducer motor fails. B)To bring in dilution air to regulate and balance airflow throughout the venting system. C)To help prevent condensation throughout the venting system by reducing the dew point, and D)To maintain the proper overfire draft under varying outside conditions.

2. Is the control kit really necessary?
Yes, not only are the control kits tested and listed accessories for the power venters, but also, if not used all FIELD CONTROLS warranties are void on the power venter. The control kits give you the safety of not allowing the appliance to run unless there is adequate draft through the draft-proving switch. Also, it will give you the controlling relay to operate the power venter and post purge to expel all flue gases after the appliance is finished firing.

3. Is the post purge really needed in the power venting system if the appliance runs a post purge?
Yes, the main reason to have the post purge on the power venting system is to purge the flue gases from the venting system before they cool to the point that they will condense. It is also used to expel the flue gases out of the motor to protect it and give it longer life.

4. Why is a draft proving switch necessary if the furnace has a pressure switch?
The draft-proving switch is set to detect the negative pressure created at the inlet to the power venter. The pressure switch in the furnace is set to detect the negative pressure at the inlet of the furnace inducer fan. If the power venter were to fail, the draft-proving switch would open and cut off the appliance. If the power venter were to fail and didn't have a draft proving switch, the furnace could continue to run, because the furnace inducer fan would hold the furnace pressure switch closed. This situation would put the vent system under a positive pressure and flue gases would leak into the structure through the draft control and pipe joints.

5. What is the difference between the CK-43 and the CK-43F?
The only difference between these two control kits is the CK-43 has an adjustable post purge timer relay, adjustable between 1-10 minutes. The CK-43F has a fixed post purge relay that would run between 1-3 minutes.

6. Why is an additional power venter needed if the furnace already has an inducer?
The inducers in the furnaces have a distance limitation that would prevent them from venting safely from various locations. Also with the elimination of the HTPV (High Temperature Plastic Venting) systems the power venter is a safer and more efficient way of venting the furnace. Keeping the venting system under a negative pressure causes less worry of cracks. If one does occur, it would draw air into the venting system, not leak it out like a positive pressure system would.

7. Can a water heater be added to a power venter later?
Yes, as long as the power venter can handle the maximum input BTU's of both appliances. You would connect the water heater by using a CK-20F/HWK hot water heater kit for the water heater.

8. Can you power vent a standard water heater with a draft induced appliance?
Yes, as long as you size the power venter to handle the maximum input BTU's of both appliances combined and use the appropriate control kit. The proper control kit would be either a CK-91 or a CK-91F. The only difference between these two control kits is the CK-91 has an adjustable post purge timer relay and the CK-91F has a fixed post purge relay

9. How do I wire my hot air gas furnace with a CK-43F or CK-43 and a power venter?
Find the terminal board on the furnace (it usually has terminals RWGCY). Remove the white wire from W on the furnace terminal board and re-route it to T1 on the CK kit. Run a new wire from T3 to the GSK-3 (if applicable) and from the other side of the GSK-3 to W on the furnace terminal board. Run T2 to C on the furnace terminal board. Follow tthe CK instructions for the L1, N, & M terminals.

10. Does the factory-installed inducer need to be disconnected when using a power venter?
No, the inducer should not be disconnected. The inducer and power venter are designed to be used in conjunction with each other. Disconnecting the inducer would void all furnace manufacturer warranties.

SWG ATMOSPHERIC GAS FIRED

1. Can two atmospheric appliances be connected to one power venter?
Yes, as long as the power venter is sized to handle the maximum input BTU rating of both appliances put together and each appliance has its own control kit. It would be recommended to use the control kits with a post purge, so that they will keep the power venter running a period of time longer, to make sure all of the flue gases are properly expelled. You would wire the power sides of the control kits in parallel and "tee" the pressure switches together, then wire the control side of the control kit to each appliance. Also make sure you have adequate combustion air for both of the appliances in case they fire together so they do not de-pressurize the room or house.

2. Is it required to use a Barometric Draft Control with a power venter?
No, if the appliance has a draft hood or a draft diverter then you would not need to add a barometric draft control. If, for some reason, there were no draft hood or draft diverter to bring in dilution air, then you would need to add a barometric draft control.

3. Can a water heater be added to a power venter later?
Yes, as long as the power venter can handle the maximum input BTU's of both appliances. You would hook up the water heater using a CK-20F/HWK hot water heater kit for the water heater.

4. Is it mandatory to use a post purge on all appliances?
No, it is not mandatory to use a post purge, but it is preferable to use one to make sure all flue gases are expelled. This will help eliminate condensation from building up within the venting system.

5. How do you size the power venter to the appliance?
The best way to size the power venter to the appliance is by the BTU rating of the appliance. If you size the power venter by the flue pipe size you could get a power venter that would be too large for the appliance possibly even large enough to suck the fire out of the appliance or cause it to have an erratic fire, and making it very inefficient.

6. Why do some of the control kits come with safety switches?
Not all furnaces or boilers have safety switches on them, in case of a flue gas spillage or a flame roll out you would want a means of shutting down the appliance. That is one of the reasons we put the safety spill switches into some of the control kits. The spill switches also give you another safety in case something goes wrong with the power venter and pressure switch.

7. How do I reset the GSK-3 spillage switches if they have tripped?
Remove the screws from both sides of the switch, and remove the cover. Inside you will find the thermostat, in the center of the thermostat is a small button, push this button in until you hear it click. (You may have to push hard.)

8. How do I wire my spark ignition gas boiler with a power venter and CK-40 series?
Locate the terminal on spark ignition module that will be 24 volts hot only on a call for the ignition module to start. This terminal in many cases will be either 24V or TH-W. Remove the wire from this terminal and re-route to T1 on the CK-40 series control kit, and a new wire from T3 on CK-40 control kit to one side of the GSK-3 (if used) back to this same terminal on the ignition module. Run T2 to a 24 volt common. Follow CK-40 series instructions for the L1, N, & M terminals.

SWG OIL FIRED

1. What is the proper procedure for sizing the power venter on an oil fired appliance?
When selecting a power venter for an oil fired appliance you must size the power venter to the maximum input GPH (gallons per hour) firing rate at the standard 100-psi pump pressure of the appliance. You would not want to size the power venter to the BTU rating of the appliance, since oil has a higher sulfuric acid content in its flue gas. The power venters have two columns on the sizing chart, one is GPH for oil, and the other is a BTU rating for gas appliances.

2. When should I use the CK-62 as opposed to the CK-61?
The CK-62 should be used anytime you have an electronic programmable thermostat or an electronic primary control such as a Phelon control or a Honeywell control model #R8991.

3. Why am I getting oil fume smells after the power venter shuts off?
There are two major reasons for this: There may not be a long enough post purge time (minimum 3-5 minutes), or there may not be enough combustion air in the room. You can call our automated fax back literature request service at 1-800-385-9460 and request form #4199 "Effects of Insufficient Combustion Air" for further information.

4. Is a post purge necessary when connecting a power venter to an oil fired appliance?
Yes, the post purge is necessary on the power venter with an oil fired appliance. With an oil fired appliance the flue gases have a higher sulfuric acid content which is very corrosive. Without the post purge the power venter's motor life will be greatly decreased along with the flue pipe used to vent the appliance. Also, there is a greater chance the flue gases could leak out of the flue pipe and into the house, which could cause sooting and odors in the house.

5. When wiring a control kit to a boiler that has an aquastat relay, is it better to wire the control kit to the aquastat or the primary control?
It would be better to wire the control kit to the primary control than to the aquastat relay. The main reason for this would be to bring the power venter on when the primary control is calling. If you wire the control kit to the aquastat relay and the primary control trips out, the power venter will keep running anytime the aquastat relay is giving the control kit a call for heat. This could result in premature power venter motor failure and an irate customer.
 

6. What is the purpose of the WMO-1?
The WMO-1 is a secondary safety for the power venting system. If the power venter is not drafting properly, or if there is a restriction in the flue pipe, the flue gases will back up, causing the WMO-1 to detect the hotter temperatures of these gases and trip out, interrupting the power to the burner motor. This will shut down the burner, and keep from filling up the home with carbon monoxide and soot.

7. Can two oil-fired appliances be vented together with one power venter?
Yes, you can vent two oil-fired appliances together with one power venter as long as you size the power venter to handle the maximum input firing rate in GPH (gallons per hour) of both appliances combined. Each appliance would need to use its own control kit. You would wire the power side of the control kits in parallel and "Tee" the pressure switches together. The control side of the control kits, being T1-T3, would be wired to their respective appliance. Also, make sure there is enough combustion air for both appliances firing together.

8. Why do the motors on the SWG power venters seem to fail more frequently on an oil-fired system than on a gas-fired system?
One of the biggest causes of premature motor failure is the power venter being sized to the BTU rating of the appliance and not to the firing rate of the appliance. The second major cause of premature motor failure is insufficient combustion air. With tighter house construction you do not get proper air exchanges. The power venter will draw out the air it needs to make the appliance fire efficiently; it will be working against the room, causing improper burning of the oil. This will cause the flue gases to be more acidic which will result in the whole motor assembly deteriorating more rapidly. The third cause of premature motor failure is using a petroleum-based lubricant instead of the recommended SWG Super Lube, which is a super lightweight synthetic lubricant. The motors are factory lubricated using the SWG Super Lube and a petroleum-based lubricant will not mix with the synthetic lubricant. This will prevent any lubrication of the bearing, which will cause the bearings to break down more rapidly, leading to a premature bearing failure in the motor.

9. How do I wire my oil-fired boiler to a CK-61 control kit and power venter?
There are two acceptable methods of wiring the CK-61 to a boiler:

* Method #1: Remove the wire from B1 terminal on boiler and re-route to one side of the WMO-1. Then from the other side of the WMO-1 run up to T3 in the CK-61. Run a new wire from terminal B1 on boiler to T1 on CK-61. Finally run a wire from T2 in the CK-61 to B2.

* Method #2: Inside primary control, unscrew the wire nut that connects the orange wire to the two blacks which feed the ignition and burner motor. Separate the orange from the two blacks and route the orange wire to T1 on CK-61. Run new wire from T3 to one side of the WMO-1. The other side of WMO-1 to same two black wires, which feed the ignition and burner motor. Run T2 to neutral whites in the primary control

* For terminals L1, N, & M follow instructions in the CK-61 manual.

10. My power venter with CK-60 series control kit runs on a call for heat but the burner will not operate. Why?
There are a number of conditions that could cause this problem:

* Check the pressure switch adjustment.
* Check to see if the pressure tube is kinked or blocked.
* Check internal and field wiring and connections.
* Check to see if the secondary safety switch is tripped between T3 and burner.
* Replace the pressure switch if contacts are bad.
* Check to see if the primary is tripped.

11. How do I wire two CK-61's with one power venter and two oil-fired appliances?
Inside R8184G primary control, separate the orange wire from the two black wires on one of the appliances. Run the orange wire to T1 on one of the CK-61's. Run T3 on the same CK-61 to one side of WMO-1. Run other side of WMO-1 to the two black wires (that the orange just came from) on same appliance. Run T2 on same CK-61 to the white wires at burner. Repeat same steps for other CK-61 on other appliance. Using extra 1/4" O.D. tubing and "Tee", mechanically connect both pressure switches on both CK-61's to the stainless steel tube on power venter. Using a separate 120-vac power source, run hot leg to L1 on one CK-61, then run a wire from L1 on first CK-61 to L1 on the second CK-61. Run a wire from both M terminals to the black wire on power venter motor. Connect both N terminals to the neutral leg of power source, and to the white wire on the power venter motor.

12. Can a PPC-4 be adjusted and how do you adjust it?
Yes, a PPC-4 can be adjusted. To adjust the PPC-4, remove two screws at top of unit, remove cover, turn adjustment screw counterclockwise to increase purge time, clockwise to decrease purge time.

CONTROL KITS

1. Is the control kit really necessary?
Yes, control kits are tested and listed accessories for the power venters, and if they are not used it will void all FIELD CONTROLS warranties on the power venter. Most of the control kits give you the safety of not allowing the appliance to run unless the power venter is operating. They also give you the relay to operate the power venter and post purge to expel flue gases after the appliance shuts down.

2. Why do some control kits come with safety switches?
Not all furnaces or boilers have safety switches factory installed. Spillage switches shut down the appliance in case of flue gas spillage. This is one of the reasons we put a spillage switch into some of the control kits. The spill switch gives you a secondary safety, with the power venter pressure switch being the primary safety.

3. Will the gas pressure switch for the CK-20F/HWK work for propane gas?
Even though it says for air or natural gas only, it may be used with propane. The gas pressure switch is used only to detect an increase in gas pressure.

4. How does the CK-20F/HWK work with a residential gas water heater?
The kit includes a gas pressure switch with a set of normally open contacts to switch 120 vac to the power venter motor. The switch senses an increase in gas pressure in the manifold side of the gas valve. The power venter and burner start at about the same time. Two normally closed spillage switches are also included and mount on the draft hood. These spill switches trip if the temperature reaches 180°F. They are wired in series with the 30-millivolt circuit using a thermocouple adapter.

5. I have a power venter with CK-20 series control kit installed with a residential gas water heater. Why won't the pilot light stay lit?
Check the spill switches to see if they have tripped, if they have then reset them. You might have to wait 10 to 15 minutes for the switches to cool down enough for them to reset. If they are not tripped, or resetting them does not help, then you can call our automated fax back system at 1-800-385-9460 and request form #4069 "Troubleshooting Pilot Light Problems on Millivolt Gas Applications".

6. I am using a power venter and CK-20F/HWK control kit with a 750-millivolt pool heater. Why won't the thermocouple adapter threads screw into the gas valve?
The thermocouple adapter is not needed with 750-millivolt systems since the GSK-3 spill switches can be wired in series with the main gas valve circuit. The CK-20F/HWK has a thermocouple adapter for 30-millivolt thermocouple systems. A 750-millivolt system has a thermopile (powerpile, pilot generator, etc.) which would not use a thermocouple system.

7. Which kit is the best for 750-millivolt systems, the CK-20F/HWK or the CK-81?
The CK-81 is the best control kit to be used on a 750-millivolt system, because the draft proving switch needs to be made before the burner can operate. The CK-81 should be used whenever possible. With 30-millivolt residential gas water heaters, the CK-20F/HWK is the only option.

8. How do I wire two CK-20F/HWK's and one power venter with two residential gas water heaters?
Connect the hot leg of 120-vac power supply to L1 on the CK-20F/HWK control kit, then run a wire from L1 to the common side on the gas pressure switch. Run a wire from the normally open side of gas pressure switch to the M terminal on the CK-20F/HWK. Run additional wires from L1 on CK-20F/HWK to common side on the second gas pressure switch. Run additional wire from the M terminal on CK-20F/HWK to the normally open terminal on the second gas pressure switch. Then run white wire out of power venter motor to the N terminal on the CK-20F/HWK kit to the neutral from the power source. Connect the black wire on the power venter motor to the M terminal on each control kit.

9. How do I wire my 750-millivolt pool heater to a CK-81 with SWG?
Remove two wires off thermostat or aquastat and re-route to T3 & T4. Then, run two new wires from thermostat or aquastat to T1 & T2. A PPC-5 post purge and GSK-3 spill switch are also recommended. The two terminals on PPC-5 go to L1 & M on the CK-81. The GSK-3 wires in series with the main gas valve.

10. What is the difference between the CK-43 and the CK-43F?
The CK-43 has an adjustable post purge timer relay, adjustable between 1-10 minutes. The CK-43F has a fixed post purge relay that would run the venter between 1-3 minutes.

11. If I am co-venting two appliances into one common breech, do I need a control kit for each appliance?
Yes, you need a control kit for each appliance. By having a control kit on each appliance, when one of the appliances calls for heat the power venter will run. Having a control kit on each appliance gives the appliance its own set of controls and safety switches should a problem occur.

12. Does it matter which way the control kit is mounted?
The control kit should be mounted so that the pressure switch is in the vertical position. This ensures proper operation of the pressure switch.

PV SERIES POWER VENTER

1. How would a standard residential water heater connect to a PVG power venter?
In order to connect a PVG power venter to a standard residential water heater you would need a CK-20F/HWK control kit. These kits will operate the power venter when the gas pressure switch senses an increase in gas pressure when the water heater is firing to heat the water.

2. Where is the best place to locate the PV Series Power Venter?
The best place to locate the PV series power venter is as close to the termination point as possible. The reason for this is that the outlet side of the PV series power venter is under a positive pressure and the least amount of positive pressure piping you have the safer the system will be.

3. Is it best to run the same size pipe on the outlet side of the PV series power venter that is coming out of the appliance?
If you have to do reducing or increasing at the power venter, you would want to run the same size of flue pipe as the outlet of the power venter to the termination.

4. Where is the best place to do your increasing or reducing of the flue pipe?
If you have to increase the size of your flue pipe it would be best to try and increase your size as close to the outlet of the appliance as possible. This would be opposite for reducing your flue pipe. When reducing you would want to reduce your flue pipe as close to the inlet of the power venter as possible, this will give you better draft regulation and control.

5. Since your sizing chart shows different sizes does that mean the PV series power venter comes with different pipe sizes?
No, the different sizes of pipe shown on our sizing charts are those that indicate the size of pipe used during testing of the PV series power venter. You need to refer to the inlet and outlet size of the power venter to determine the size of vent hood you would use for termination.

6. Is a control kit required to operate the PV series power venter?
The only time that you would need a control kit for the PV series power venter is if you are hooking up multiple appliances, a power piled appliance, or a thermocoupled hot water heater. The PV series power venter comes with a built in control kit for most gas or oil-fired appliances.

7. Can you use the PV series power venter to vent an appliance into a chimney?
Yes, as long as the chimney is relined with a continuous liner that is connected directly to the power venter. You would want to place the PV series power venter as close to the base of the chimney as possible and have the same size liner as the outlet of the power venter.

DRAFT INDUCER TYPE C

1. Can the Type C draft inducer be used in a square chimney?
Yes. The Type C can be used in a square chimney. A chimney adapter would have to be constructed to cover the outside of the chimney. The chimney adapter would be needed to secure the Type C to the top of the chimney.

2. Can the Type C draft inducer be used on a gas or oil-fired appliance, such as boilers, or furnaces?
No. The Type C draft inducer has only been tested on wood and gas burning fireplaces. We would not recommend it for any other application.

DRAFT INDUCER DI SERIES

1. Can the DI Series draft inducer be mounted in a vertical run?
Yes, as long as the motor shaft stays parallel to the floor.

2. Do I need a control kit with my DI Series draft inducer?
It is preferable to use a control kit. The control kit gives you the safety of not allowing the appliance to run unless there is adequate draft through the draft-proving switch. Also, it will give you the controlling relay to operate the draft inducer and post purge to expel all flue gases after the appliance is finished running.

3. Where is the best location to mount the DI Series draft inducer?
The best location for mounting the DI Series draft inducer is as close to the vertical rise as possible. If the DI Series draft inducer is being mounted on a vertical rise it should be mounted no closer than 2 feet from the termination.

AIR BOOSTERS

1. Can the JR-2, AB-1, or KS series be used with a speed control?
Yes, as long as it is a variable motor control and not a dimmer switch.

2. How do I wire the speed control with my air booster?
A speed control would wire in series with the power leg between the blower motor on the furnace and the air booster motor.

3. Which of the air boosters can be mounted in a vertical duct?
The AB-1 can be mounted in a vertical duct, because the motor is located outside of the duct and the blower wheel would be inside the duct. With the KS series and the JR series the fan blade is mounted onto the motor and placing it vertically would place strain on the motor causing premature motor failure. If mounting the AB-1 vertically make sure the motor shaft is parallel to the floor.

4. Where is the best place to mount an air booster?
You should mount the air booster as close to the problem register as possible.

5. Can the air booster run continuously?
Yes, but it will most likely decrease the life expectancy of the motor on the air booster.

6. What is an air booster activator (ABA-1) and why would I need one?
The air booster activator (ABA-1) is a differential pressure switch which when wired in series with the air booster, allows the air booster to operate when the furnace blower starts. It installs in the warm air plenum or return duct near the furnace blower. The ABA-1 eliminates having to direct wire the air booster to the furnace blower motor.

7. How many air boosters can I operate on my ABA-1?
We recommend a maximum of two air boosters on one ABA-1.

8. Which of the air boosters is the quietest?
The AB-1 is designed with a squirrel cage blower wheel with the motor mounted on the outside of the unit. When installed, the motor will be on the outside of the duct.

9. Why is my KS series air booster causing my duct to vibrate?
The best way to eliminate this problem is to install a section of 6-inch flex duct on either side of the KS unit and secure the KS unit to the floor joist.

10. Can an AB-1 be mounted on top of the duct?
Mounting the AB-1 on top of the duct is not recommended. The oil holes on the motor would be on top, possibly causing the oil to flow out.

HUMIDIFIERS

1. Why won't the media wheel on my TurboMist turn when my furnace blower comes on?
It is likely that the TurboMist is installed in a "dead air" space and the turbine is not receiving airflow of sufficient velocity. To determine if this is the problem, remove TurboMist from duct and blow on the turbine, making sure the shaft is pushed all the way into the turbine assembly orifice. If it turns, then this is the problem. To solve this problem, cut a slit in the pipe about as wide as the TurboMist. Slide a piece of sheet metal into the plenum.

2. Is it okay for my FM-90 to run continuously?
It will not harm the motor but be careful not to over humidify your home. Go by the guidelines in the instruction manual for recommended relative indoor humidity levels.

3. Why does my TM-2000 keep spraying after the blower on my furnace shuts off?
First make sure that the unit will stop spraying if the unit is unplugged. If it shuts off with no power supplied to it, then the solenoid valve is good. If the valve is good, then it is likely that there is enough residual heat left over to keep the heat sensitive switch activated. The solution is to have an electrician wire a receptacle in parallel with the blower motor. Then plug the TM-2000 into this receptacle or install a Field ABA-1. If you connect the TM-2000 to the blower motor make sure you install a surge protector on the receptacle to protect the transformer.

4. Why do I get condensation in my ductwork downstream of my TM-2000?
Make sure that the nozzle has at least one cubic foot of space for the nozzle to spray into. Sudden changes in the direction of the ductwork can cause turbulent airflow. One example may be if the nozzle is installed before a "Tee" in the ductwork. Move the remote sprayer to one branch of the "Tee" providing that the one cubic foot of space is available in the branch. Sometimes a 45° elbow is needed to direct the spray more into the center of the duct.

5. Can I use hot water for my TM-2000?
Yes, it will work a little better since the hot water will evaporate more rapidly, but cold water is preferable since the plastic tubing will soften with hot water and may cause leakage. Also, if you have a water softener, it is usually installed prior to a water heater, which means the humidifier would be using softened water, which can damage the solenoid valve and nozzle. If you have hard water the nozzle may clog a little more often due to lime scale.

6. Why do I get white dust build-up all over the house now that I am using the TM-2000?
The dust is actually the minerals in your water. The only technology available we know of is a reverse osmosis system for the whole house. A reverse osmosis system will remove the minerals from the water supply.

7. Why does the media pad on my FM-90 keep getting a yellowish-white build-up on it?
This is hard water scale. A FIELD CONTROLS ClearWave Water Conditioner should alleviate this problem.

8. Why does the nozzle on my TM-2000 drip all the time even with the unit shut off?
The solenoid valve is not properly closing and needs replacing. For a replacement solenoid valve contact our sales department at (252) 522-3031 and they will be able to assist you.

9. Why would I need the optional humidistat for the TM-2000?
The humidistat will help prevent the problems of having too much humidity in the air. The humidistat is wired in series with the 24-volt power supply of the TM-2000 and will prevent the TM-2000 from operating if the humidity level exceeds the setting on the humidistat.

10. Why does my TM-2000 spray whether the power is on or off?
The solenoid valve may have been put in backwards. Switch the tubes on the main TM-2000 housing so that the water supply is connected to the "out" and run the "in" to the remote spray bracket. If the problem still exists the solenoid valve is stuck open and would need replacing. For a replacement solenoid valve contact our sales department at (252) 522-3031 and they will be able to assist you.

11. Does the TM-2000 require any maintenance?
The water needs to be shut off and the water supply tube needs to be drained after the heating season. The nozzle and water inlet filter need to be changed at the end of the heating season, possibly more often depending on the condition of the water.

CLEARWAVE

1. My ClearWave doesn't seem to be working as well as it did when I first installed it. Why is this?
Sometimes a power surge may cause the circuit board inside the ClearWave to lock up. Check the unit and make sure the lights are blinking in sequence and varying in speed (slower, then faster, then slower again). If they're not, unplug it for one to two minutes then plug it back in. Check the lights again. This should reset the circuit board and the ClearWave should operate better. One solution to this problem is to use a surge protector to protect the ClearWave from power surges.

2. Does it matter which antenna goes clockwise or counterclockwise?
The only thing that matters is that one goes clockwise and one goes counterclockwise.

3. Can the ClearWave be mounted vertically?
Yes. It can be mounted horizontally, vertically, even diagonally. It is not affected by orientation.

4. Is there any plumbing involved in the installation of the ClearWave?
There is no plumbing modification involved with the installation of the ClearWave.

5. Does the ClearWave affect iron particles in water?
No. In fact, if the iron content is high enough (above .30 PPM), then an iron filter is recommended prior to the ClearWave. We recommend the Automatic Backwash Iron/Sulfur filter sold by McMaster-Carr. Their phone # is 1-404-346-7000. Ask for part# 9843K13. It sells for about $325.

6. Is there any maintenance required to keep the ClearWave running?
There is no maintenance that needs to be performed on the ClearWave.

7. What is the life expectancy of the ClearWave?
There are many factors that can affect the life expectancy of the ClearWave, including humidity, electric service, acts of God (lightning, flooding, etc.). In laboratory settings the ClearWave has operated continuously for over 10 years. We warranty the ClearWave for three years from date of purchase and will replace any unit that fails during that time. The ClearWave does contain a microprocessor and we recommend that the unit be protected by a surge protector.

8. Will the ClearWave affect my water pressure?
Yes. Based on testing and customer feedback, many customers have noticed a substantial improvement in water flow due to the descaling effect on the plumbing system. This is especially true with customers who have well pumps.

9. Can the ClearWave be used in conjunction with a traditional water softener?
Yes. In fact, the ClearWave will dramatically improve the efficiency of existing salt softeners, resulting in significant salt savings.

10. Where, physically, do I install the ClearWave?
The best location for mounting the ClearWave would be on the main incoming water line before it splits to the water heater, preferably indoors. If you must install the unit outside make sure you waterproof the unit.

11. Can the ClearWave be installed on plastic pipe?
Yes. The ClearWave can be used effectively on any type of water pipe, galvanized, copper, or plastic.

12. Does the ClearWave need to be installed on the pipe?
No. If the unit cannot be installed directly on the pipe, then we suggest mounting the unit on the wall. All that needs to touch the pipe is the antennae.

13. I had my water tested for hardness before installing the ClearWave, two months have passed and I have tested my water for hardness again. My water hardness has not changed. Is my ClearWave working?
With a traditional water hardness test kit the readings will be about the same. The ClearWave does not remove any minerals, it just changes the chemical makeup of these minerals. Therefore the minerals are still there just in a different form. The only test that seems to make any noticeable difference is a soap demonstration test model no. SO-1, which is available from The Hach Co. Their phone number is 1-800-227-4224.

14. How many grains of hardness will the ClearWave treat effectively?
The ClearWave will treat up to 25 grains of hardness or 427 Mg/L or ppm of hardness. (Mg/L = milligrams per liter and ppm = parts per million)

15. Should the water be flowing in the same direction as the lights are flashing?
No. The performance of the ClearWave is not affected by the direction the water is flowing.

16. Is the ClearWave Y2K compatible?
The microprocessor in the ClearWave is not date oriented, so there is no threat of stoppage due to the Y2K compatibility problem.

UV AIRE

1. How does the UV-Aire work?
The UV-Aire installs inside the main ductwork or plenum of a forced air heating or air conditioning system. As air passes the lamp, it is treated with powerful UV-C rays, which reduce airborne contamination.

2. What is UV-C light and how does it kill bacteria?
UV-C is the invisible, ultraviolet, C-band radiation that makes up part of the sun's light spectrum. UV-C light prevents growth and germination of microorganisms by altering the DNA and RNA and effectively sterilizing the organisms. Once sterilized, they cannot reproduce and with their short life cycles, they are effectively killed.

3. How long has UV been used in air purification?
Since 1936, UV has been used to sterilize air. It was first used to purify air in a surgical operating room. UV has been used in schools to decrease the growth of epidemics such as measles and tuberculosis. Other applications include: barber shops, restaurants, incubation rooms, veterinary clinics, and hospitals.

4. Why use a UV light product?
There are two primary benefits to using UV light. The first is to use UV light to radiate a surface to keep mold from growing in that area. The other use is, disinfecting the air stream as it passes through the HVAC system. A high disinfection rate is not generally accomplished in the air stream in one pass over the UV lamp. However, a significant disinfection rate is accomplished with repeated circulation of air through the system, making use of UV light very beneficial.

5. What is the importance of UV light products?
People spend over 90% of their time indoors. With little or no ventilation, concentrations of microorganisms will increase indoors, potentially spreading a number of diseases. With increased cases of deaths being caused by various bacterial diseases, controlling the growth and spread of pathogens is of major concern in indoor environments. According to indoor air quality experts, controlling airborne microorganisms is the next major challenge of the HVAC industry.

6. How does UV-Aire differ from other UV-C devices?
UV-C energy has been successfully used in many indoor environments. UV-Aire was developed specifically for use in HVAC systems. It creates a consistent, high output of UV-C energy. The UV-Aire's intensity output maximizes microorganism disinfection and ensures cleaner indoor air.

7. Is the UV-Aire harmful in any way?
Direct exposure to UV light is not recommended, as it may cause damage to skin and eyes. UV light does not pass through solid materials such as plastic, glass or metal ductwork. Properly installed inside the duct, the UV-Aire is a safe and practical product.

8. Does Field Controls UV-Aire produce ozone?
No! We do not endorse the use of ozone in occupied spaces. Ozone is a known carcinogen and has been linked to respiratory problems. Because the UV-Aire does not produce ozone, the unit can remain on at all times. This feature allows us to constantly attack the microorganism in the system.

9. Is it affordable?
Compared to high costs of medical treatment and missed work as a result of poor indoor air quality, the UV-Aire pays for itself quickly. The UV-Aire costs only pennies a day to operate, consuming about the same amount of energy as a 30-watt light bulb.

10. Is the product suitable for people with severe allergy or asthma problems?
Yes. The UV-Aire can offer relief to many allergy and asthma sufferers by reducing airborne contamination. However, the device is not exclusively for people with respiratory disorders. Your entire family can benefit from breathing healthier air.

11. Does the UV-Aire produce a fresh air smell?
Many smells are not addressed by the UV-Aire. However, some unpleasant smells develop from the growth of microorganisms. The UV-Aire works to reduce mold and other common household germs, in many cases resulting in a fresher smelling environment.

12. Is the technology proven?
Yes! UV-Aire and other UV products have been installed in all types of buildings including: homes, hospitals, offices, public buildings, food preparation plants, electric utilities companies, and more. Users consistently report improvements in air quality and reduced respiratory illnesses.

13. Does UV light take the place of a filter?
No. The UV-Aire should be used in conjunction with a filter. HVAC filters trap airborne particles based on their size, allowing most microorganisms to pass through undeterred. The Ultraviolet light attacks microorganisms. It is recommended to install the UV-Aire downstream of the air filter.

14. How can I get the product installed in my home?
A network of HVAC contractors is available in most areas. They can quickly size and determine the best location for the UV-Aire in your HVAC system.

15. How long does installation take?
Installation generally takes less than an hour and should always be performed by a licensed contractor.

16. Why does the unit remain on at all times?
Microorganisms like moist, dark places. When the light remains on, the reproduction of these organisms may be reduced. The method also simplifies the installation. Complex wiring into the fan circuit is eliminated. Isolation relays, sail switches, and pressure switches are not required for installation. The unit plugs into a standard 120v outlet. It is also more energy efficient to leave the lamp on continuously. Similar to fluorescent lights, the energy required to start the UV lamp is high, while operating energy is low.

17. Should the HVAC appliance fan or blower run continuously?
No. This is not necessary. During normal operation of the heating or air conditioning, the blower will circulate the air over the UV lamp from 50-75 times a day, which is sufficient. During moderate weather, when neither the heating or air conditioning is on, it is recommended to open the windows to allow for fresh air infiltration and/or to operate the blower continuously (turn on the fan) to circulate air over the UV light.

18. What kind of maintenance is required?
It is recommended to periodically inspect the lamp's operation through the view port to ensure the lamp is on. It is also necessary to change the UV lamp annually, as the intensity of the lamp's output diminishes over time. The changing of the UV lamp should be done during annual air conditioning or furnace Inspection.

19. Does the lamp require cleaning?
Dirt and oil on the surface of the lamp reduce output intensity. Upon installation, the lamp should be wiped with the alcohol swab provided. The lamp may need to be cleaned every 3 to 6 months depending on its operating environment. Simply remove the lamp and wipe with alcohol. Avoid touching the lamp with bare hands. The oils in your hands may reduce UV output.

20. Why does the lamp require a yearly replacement?
After 9,000 hours of operation, 375 days, the lamp starts to become "solarized". The UV-C output is reduced to around 80% of its original intensity, which steadily declines thereafter. The lamp will still be illuminated, producing visible light. However, UV-C light will diminish reducing effectiveness.

21. How much electricity does the light use?
Approximately 30 watts with 1 lamp and 60 watts with 2 lamps.

22. How is the system sized?
The system is sized according to square footage.

23. What is the best location for the UV-Aire?
Install the UV-Aire in either the supply or return plenum of the warm air heating system. With air conditioning systems, the best location is over the air conditioning coil.

24. Why above the air conditioning coil?
Moisture accumulates on the air conditioning coil, creating a damp surface for growth of mold and microorganisms. With the UV lamp over the air conditioning coil, the lamp constantly soaks the coil with its rays, effectively disinfecting the air as well as keeping the coil clean.

25. Can the UV-Aire be installed in the return air?
Yes! An optional location is the return air. We suggest the unit be located upstream or prior to the humidifier. This should prevent the lamp from getting water spots, which reduce UV output.

26. How long is the warranty?
The warranty is one year from the date of purchase for the unit and 30 days for the lamp.

27. Why use eye protection?
UV light cannot be seen. When you look at a UV lamp, you are seeing the visible light, not UV light. There are several bands in the UV light spectrum. UV-C is used to control mold and microorganisms. UV-C light will damage human tissue following continuous exposure and can severely burn the eyes. A glance from a distance may not be a problem. But, looking at a UV-C lamp close up for 5-10 seconds could damage the eyes. Protecting the eyes with plastic protective goggles is recommended.

28. What is the meaning of microwatts per centimeter at 1 meter?
This is an intensity rating: the amount of UV-C energy exposed onto one square centimeter of surface area on a target placed 1 meter from the lamp.

29. What precautions should be taken before opening or servicing the ductwork where a UV-C lamp is in use?
The UV-C lamp should be turned OFF prior to entering the ductwork. An external switch is provided as well as warning labels regarding service procedures.

30. What effects will UV-C rays have on plastics such as coil pans?
If the plastic is not UV resistant, UV-C can cause a breakdown of the material over time. Based on lab tests, positioning the lamp 30 inches or more away from plastic surfaces will eliminate any measurable breakdown of plastic material.

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